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PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2015 10:42 am 
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Hi

Please can i get your advice on this

Please dont tell me to chuck it though

Nightmare situation with the binding channel on the rear..it appears my chuck didnt hold the bit ..even though it was fully tightened

I nw have a partially cut back that has a section that is a depth of 6mm (perfect) then a long section at 7mm which i could of got away with as i wanted to taper/thin the outer of the rear anyway..but i now have a 9mm section around the upper bout

Dont know what to do next..the router chuck is ok now i think

Any help please

Heres some pics of my spoilt day
ImageImageImageImage


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2015 11:05 am 
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yikes, I feel for you. If you have an offcut from the sides you may be able to patch and the re-route the channel.

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These users thanked the author johnparchem for the post: Cablepuller (Sun Jun 07, 2015 12:22 pm)
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2015 11:41 am 
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Ditto what John said -- taper both ends of the patch at a shallow angle and it will blend pretty good.

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These users thanked the author kencierp for the post: Cablepuller (Sun Jun 07, 2015 12:24 pm)
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2015 12:27 pm 
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kencierp wrote:
Ditto what John said -- taper both ends of the patch at a shallow angle and it will blend pretty good.

Thanks

Its going to be tricky ...will i have to bend the patch to match the curve of the side or can i do it another way


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2015 12:46 pm 
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Yes -- you should shape the patch, pre-bend, than trim the repair area to match -- at least that's how I'd do it. There used to be repair experts participating perhaps they will chime in?

A narrow strip like that will bend easily, you can even use an electric curling iron.

Just curious how thick is the back on that project?

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Last edited by kencierp on Sun Jun 07, 2015 5:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.


These users thanked the author kencierp for the post: Cablepuller (Mon Jun 08, 2015 11:46 am)
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2015 2:42 pm 
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To make it easier on myself if I had a cut-off piece wide enough I think I would rout out the whole channel to the width of the widest section and glue in a piece of RW binding then re-cut the proper width. I believe you could make it next to invisible.

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These users thanked the author Ben-Had for the post: Cablepuller (Sun Jun 07, 2015 3:15 pm)
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2015 2:52 pm 
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I don't know what the aesthetic of the rest of the guitar is like, but you might be able to try something like this on the side (Simon Fay guitar). It would be easier than getting a perfect match for the grain. Probably wouldn't work well on a traditional style instrument though.
I love little details like this on guitars if they're tied into the overall style. Obviously you would have to make it not look like an afterthought.

Image

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These users thanked the author PeterF for the post: Cablepuller (Sun Jun 07, 2015 3:15 pm)
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2015 3:22 pm 
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Ben-Had wrote:
To make it easier on myself if I had a cut-off piece wide enough I think I would rout out the whole channel to the width of the widest section and glue in a piece of RW binding then re-cut the proper width. I believe you could make it next to invisible.

Good idea ben .. didnt think about buying rw binding


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2015 4:56 pm 
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Cable: What is the thickness of both your top and back.....??
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2015 6:33 pm 
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I would be inclined to saw the back off and make the body slightly thinner (re-doing the lining if necessary)



These users thanked the author Clay S. for the post: Cablepuller (Mon Jun 08, 2015 12:36 am)
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2015 6:51 pm 
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I agree with everyone else. I think you can pre-bend an off cut from the side and graft it in. Judicious use of a little Rosewood dust and CA and I bet it will look surprisingly good.

Man that is a thick back!

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These users thanked the author Terence Kennedy for the post: Cablepuller (Mon Jun 08, 2015 12:37 am)
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2015 7:19 pm 
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Is it just me, or does the back look flat, no arch? That might explain the thickness.

Alex

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These users thanked the author Alex Kleon for the post: Cablepuller (Mon Jun 08, 2015 12:43 am)
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2015 7:28 pm 
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Could always make it 9mm all around and have a thick binding.

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These users thanked the author Michiyuki Kubo for the post: Cablepuller (Mon Jun 08, 2015 12:37 am)
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 08, 2015 12:03 am 
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Maybe I'm not understanding buy why not go .09 all the way around and add a bwb or some contrasting additional binding strip or something interesting to fur the maple up. I would not try to use the same material as the sides. That way lies madness.

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These users thanked the author Goat Rock Ukulele for the post: Cablepuller (Mon Jun 08, 2015 12:38 am)
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 08, 2015 12:36 am 
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Tom West wrote:
Cable: What is the thickness of both your top and back.....??
Tom

Tom
Back is 3.7mm not sure about top


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 08, 2015 12:42 am 
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Alex Kleon wrote:
Is it just me, or does the back look flat, no arch? That might explain the thickness.

Alex

Alex

No there is an arch..maybe not enough and probably way to thick.. my first scratch build so still learning (the hard way)
Was in the mind set of thinning it when its on.but realise now this is probably wrong.. but i dont want this thread to go of track about thickness as my main problem is this channel
Cheers


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 08, 2015 12:44 am 
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Goat Rock Ukulele wrote:
Maybe I'm not understanding buy why not go .09 all the way around and add a bwb or some contrasting additional binding strip or something interesting to fur the maple up. I would not try to use the same material as the sides. That way lies madness.

Like your thinking gru :)


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 08, 2015 12:45 am 
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PeterF wrote:
I don't know what the aesthetic of the rest of the guitar is like, but you might be able to try something like this on the side (Simon Fay guitar). It would be easier than getting a perfect match for the grain. Probably wouldn't work well on a traditional style instrument though.
I love little details like this on guitars if they're tied into the overall style. Obviously you would have to make it not look like an afterthought.

Image

Thanks peter ..getting good ideas coming in now


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 08, 2015 2:41 am 
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This one has binding/purling installed at 8mm by design (7mm of rosewood plus 1.5mm of W/B/W, then leveled). Looks fine.

Attachment:
2_Med Tilt_Cropped_CS.jpg

(It's a tilt neck classical, if you were wondering)

Your back is definitely thick. Depending on how handy you are with planes/sanding blocks, I'd be thinning the back panel to 2.7mm at the edges, tapering it from about 70mm inboard of the periphery, blended with a good ROS. Then 8mm of binding/purfling will work fine.


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These users thanked the author Trevor Gore for the post: Cablepuller (Mon Jun 08, 2015 7:38 am)
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 08, 2015 6:10 am 
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Trying to route that ledge in one pass may be the underlying cause of the error.



These users thanked the author Barry Daniels for the post: Cablepuller (Mon Jun 08, 2015 7:39 am)
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 08, 2015 7:38 am 
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Trevor Gore wrote:
This one has binding/purling installed at 8mm by design (7mm of rosewood plus 1.5mm of W/B/W, then leveled). Looks fine.

Attachment:
2_Med Tilt_Cropped_CS.jpg

(It's a tilt neck classical, if you were wondering)

Your back is definitely thick. Depending on how handy you are with planes/sanding blocks, I'd be thinning the back panel to 2.7mm at the edges, tapering it from about 70mm inboard of the periphery, blended with a good ROS. Then 8mm of binding/purfling will work fine.

Thanks trevor


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 08, 2015 9:18 am 
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Cablepuller wrote:
Goat Rock Ukulele wrote:
Maybe I'm not understanding buy why not go .09 all the way around and add a bwb or some contrasting additional binding strip or something interesting to fur the maple up. I would not try to use the same material as the sides. That way lies madness.

Like your thinking gru :)


Im kind of leaning this way myself . First scratch build , so its not something you will ever sell . Since it will be a keeper , let your imagination go and get creative with it.

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These users thanked the author WudWerkr for the post: Cablepuller (Mon Jun 08, 2015 10:20 am)
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 08, 2015 9:49 am 
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I'd definitely take off some of that back down to 2.5-2.2mm in the center and thinner yet at the edge. You can also make the side purfling BWB under the binding. The black next to the wood will hardly show. Deep binding looks amaturish.



These users thanked the author Haans for the post: Cablepuller (Mon Jun 08, 2015 10:20 am)
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 08, 2015 11:43 am 
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Haans wrote:
I'd definitely take off some of that back down to 2.5-2.2mm in the center and thinner yet at the edge. You can also make the side purfling BWB under the binding. The black next to the wood will hardly show. Deep binding looks amaturish.

Thanks haans

Will get the thickness down next then re measure and think about 2nd binding..
What thicknesses do you recommend for the front
Cheers


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 08, 2015 12:23 pm 
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I did this on a guitar a couple of years ago (on purpose). Think it looks pretty good.

Image



These users thanked the author WilliamS for the post (total 3): Glenn_Aycock (Mon Jun 08, 2015 7:05 pm) • cphanna (Mon Jun 08, 2015 5:09 pm) • Cablepuller (Mon Jun 08, 2015 12:24 pm)
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